From the ruins of – Sun Temple, Modhera


From the Ruins of Sun Temple of Modhera - Let me take you to the Sun Temple of #Modhera in #Gujarat which is even older than the Sun Temple of Konark! #India #History #Architecture #SunTemple
Welcome to the Sun Temple of Modhera
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When people mention India and Sun Temple, everyone defaults to Konark – one of the first cultural UNESCO world heritage sites of India, whose preservation started way back in the 19th century. But did you know India has about seven Sun Temples that were built across the country between 10th century to 13th century AD! Out of the seven, the most prominent one after Konark is probably the Sun Temple of Modhera, Gujarat.



Poetry of Pillars

About two hours away from Ahmedabad, there lies a forgotten temple of the sun god that was once built perhaps to commemorate the bravery of a ruling dynasty or just out of gratitude to the primary deity of the dynasty, but now is a site of marvel for those who tread on the path that leads to Modhera. Built in around early 11th century by the Bhimdeva I of the Solanki dynasty, this temple is actually older than the Konark Temple but equally fascinating.


Standing tall since 11th century A.D.

After crossing an array of farmlands and small settlements on the banks of river Puspavati, when you finally get to the Sun Temple, at the first glance it just looks like a modest page of history on the verge of getting lost. But as you inch closure, the step-well captivates your attention and takes you back in time.


No photo can actually do justice to this step well - massive, symmetrical and beautiful even with what remains.

Suryakund, locally also known as Ramakund, with its 108, mostly ornate shrines leave you admiring the skills of the craftsmen who managed to conjure this piece wonder in the 11th century. Ganesha with Laxmi, Vishnu on Sheshanag, Shiva in the Pashupati and Natraj avatar, Shitala Ma destroying ghouls, Rama Krishna and so many other deities still occupy their original temple in the 108 shrines around the Suryakund and are still worshipped! But there are some ruined and empty shrines too that make you wander, what happened here.


Some of many deities who have their shrines around Surya Kund.

That thought knocks you out of a trance that the geometry of the steps might have put you in, and the Sabha Mandap beckons you with some birds flying over it. Sabha Mandap is probably the most striking structure out of the three major structures in the complex as it is solely supported by pillars! Sabha Mandap, the dancing and assembly hall stands between the sanctum sanctorum, called the Gudha Mandap, and the Suryakund but welcomes visitors from every direction.


So you notice the rectangular holes in the pillars? It is believed that they were built to keep Diyas that would light up the place! Also, there are gaps on some of the pillars that were probably built for torches! (Source - A guide in the campus.)

Supported by 52 intricately carved pillars, the Sabha Mandap is a testament of the Solanki craftsmanship. The pillars all similar yet so different, connected with alternating triangular and circular arches seem to be in perfect harmony while reciting a silent poem of the bygone era. Today, the musicians and dancers no longer grace the floor of the Sabha Mandap, but the sculptures of musicians and dancers on the pillars still make sure their song in not lost to time!


Intricate floral work on the ceiling of the Sabha Mandap. If you have been to Dilwara Temples, you will be able to draw some comparisons here! Also, can you see the central lotus? 

Spend a moment in there, dance and twirl if you can and admire the central ceiling chandelier, floral and exquisite. Feel one with the art and cultural vibe of the place. Pause and soak in the historical wealth of India and move on to explore another part of this beautiful structure.


A gate to the present or the past? 

The exterior of Sabha Mandap might seem a bit overwhelming after seeing the interiors, but in a step of two you will come face to face with the Gudha Mandap and be lost in epics of Indian Mythology. 


All that remains of this beautiful temple.

The exterior of the Gudha Mandap is etched with chapters from Ramayana and Mahabharata, and some lessons of life and death. There is also a distinct deity that repeats with a slightly different facial expression alternating around the Gudha Mandap. I heard a guide say, they are all visages of Surya on his 7-horsed chariot greeting the different months of the year with lotuses in his hands.


Sun God welcoming some month of the year...

But going around the Gudha mandap, you see the level of damage the place had endured possibly during the Khilji era, when Alauddin Khilji went on a rampage to destroy Hindu temples around the country. No one can be certain about what happened back in time, but whatever it was, it surely was looted and damaged extensively, causing people to abandon it. The interior of the Gudha Mandap is dark and occupied by a horde of bats.


Wish we could also see what the temple looks like from the inside, because the exterior was extremely beautiful!

The squeaks of the bats and the overwhelming stench makes it impossible to even peer inside the structure, and thus I can’t really tell you if there is anything worth observing there. But it is said that the temple door was constructed in a way so that the first sun rays would fall directly on the idol placed in the sanctum sanctorum.


Pitch black home of the bats; no more idol, no more worship...

Unfortunately, the idol is long gone and all that remains is the dark altar. Right outside the Gudha Mandap are two pillars, which are what remains of the Kirti Torana. Despite the damage, the stone work on the pillars of the Kirti Torana are still very well preserved! 


They sure were broken and their significance was reduced to zilch. But thanks to the Modhera Dance Festival, people notice these two pillars with the temple in their background, even when they come just for the festival! Kirti Toran - fitting name? 

Also, if you are heading to Modhera for the Modhera Dance Festival, there is a small stage in front of these very pillars where all the magic comes to life! Which brings me to some important things you should know before visiting Modhera!


The campus might not be that big, but it sure steals your heart.

How to Get to Modhera:
Ahmedabad is the closest airport and major railway station to Modhera Sun Temple and the most convenient way to get to the temple is to hire a cab from the city. You can also take a train till Mehsana which is 1.5 hours away from the temple, but the frequency for these trains is bad.


The tiny, new, functional temple that is the only functional temple in the campus.

Some Important Tips:
-    Carry a lot of water because the place does get hot and dry in almost every season, and also a hat or cap.
-    For food and washrooms, the only decent option in the vicinity is Toran Cafeteria. (Contact Number: +91 2734 284334)
-        Visiting hours for the temple are from 6am to 6pm.
-   There is also a temple in the complex, near the Gudha Mandap, which is still functional. If the priest is free, you can have some really interesting conversations with him (he told me a lot about Solanki Dynasty).


Best remains of the Solanki Dynasty.

Some more facts about the place:
-      Every year, mostly during the weekend after Uttarayan (this year from January 19th to January 21st), the temple campus is the site of the Uttarardh Mahotsav, famously called the Modhera Dance Festival. I haven’t attend it till date but given how beautiful and magical Konark Dance Festival was, I feel this too would be an amazing experience. And since it happens around the time of Rann Mohatsav, it would be a no-brainer addition to the perfect cultural itinerary for Gujarat.
-   In 2014, this Modhera Sun Temple was added to the list of considerations for UNESCO World Heritage Sites and it is currently under the supervision of Archaeological Survey of India.
-  You can combine exploring Rani Ni Vav (another UNESCO Site) and Adalaj Stepwell tour with your trip to Modhera from Ahmedabad.




From the Ruins of Sun Temple of Modhera - Let me take you to the Sun Temple of #Modhera in #Gujarat which is even older than the Sun Temple of Konark! #India #History #Architecture #SunTemple
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Comments

  1. The pictures of the sun temple caught my eye that I forgot to read half of the post. I'm so impressed by this sun temple and yes the carvings are so intricate and despite so many years of its existence it still looks like it was built recently. ♥️

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    1. I know right! The carvings are so well preserved in most parts of the temple.

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  2. It's lovely to see your pictures and learn about the second most famous sun temple in India . I didnt know there are so many sun temples in India. The intricate stonework is just stunning.

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    1. Thanks! :) Even I was surprised to know of so many Sun Temples during my research. I knew and have visited 4 of these, but Konark and Modhera surely stand out!

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  3. I have never seen such intricate carvings, they are incredible. Those amazing pillars quite a sight to behold. Thank you for your informative article.

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  4. I didn't know there were so many sun temples in India, but this must be one of the most beautiful. Your picture are stunning, I'd love to visit there one day. Thanks for all the helpful information, have pinned this for reference.

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    1. Thank you so much!! Glad you liked the post :) And believe it or not, Konark deserves its place as the most famous Sun Temple of India! (Will try and give you a tour of that temple next month :))

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  5. Wow, I never even heard about this place before! This temple looks spectacular. Reading this post, I feel sad I didn't get the chance to visit last time I was in India. I would surely visit once I come back again. Thank you for this lovely recommendation

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    1. Glad you liked the post :) Hopefully you get to visit it during your next visit to India. I am sure you will love it!

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  6. I have seen already quite many temples, especially in Europe and in Asia. But I must admit that such a beautiful one with that level of details I never saw before. This is absolutely impressive and I cannot imagine how long it took to built such a piece of art, especially in the 11th century! What fascinates me the most is how they were even able to built such temples with the tools they had back in those times. This is truly a big wonder for me.

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    1. Historical sites with exceptional architectural structures leave me speechless for that very reason - how on earth did people build them!

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  7. Modhera is a beautiful temple. The carvings are so ornate and detailed - I have never seen the like before. I especially loved their ceiling. You are so right. Konark is just the default when one thinks of sun temples in India. But there are so many more. And they are so beautiful.

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    1. Exactly, there are so many more! And luckily now all of them are getting identified by either ASI or UNESCO and are being taken care of. :)

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  8. What a beautiful temple! I love all the little details on the pillars. I am not surprised that it was added to the UNESCO site list, it looks so unique. We like to visit UNESCO sites since they usually have such a long and important history, a story to tell to the visitors. This one I would love to visit during the festival you were telling about.

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    1. I love visiting UNESCO sites too! And yes, visiting Modhera during Uttarardh Mahotsav has a very different feel to it!

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  9. Have heard that there are few more sun temples including the Konark but did not know the numbers, this one is so fascinating. Your description made me feel i am exploring the place and the vibrant captures has made this more lively.
    Enjoyed reading throughout.

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  10. This is one gorgeous place! The intricate carvings and the geometry of the place are simply outstanding. I never heard of this Sun Temple and that there are so many in India. Why is this not one of the most popular places?

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    1. Given how detailed and grand Konar sun temple is with all its history, it pretty much takes up all the limelight, making Modhera sun temple second most well known. And yes, this one is beautiful, more well preserved and exceptional in its own way, but Konark is something extraordinary. Will try and give you a tour of Konark temple next month! :)

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  11. Exquisite carvings! I hope they are preserved for ever. Excellent description of the different architectural details there.

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    1. I hope so too! Places like this need and deserve to be preserved. Glad you liked the details in the post :)

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  12. Woow, this temple looks gorgeous. I can just imagine how many natural calamities like typhoons or earthquake it survived! I hope to visit this soon.

    Commenting on behalf of Christopher Rudder

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    1. It is sad that it survived natural calamities but suffered under the tyranny of Khilji Dynasty. Still it is beautiful in its ruins! Hope you get to visit the place soon :)

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  13. The Sun Temple looks intriguing. I'm amazed at the detail in the carvings and would love to spend some time exploring.

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  14. I am yet to visit Modhera inspite of having been to Amdavad twice. These are definitely exquisite carvings and the place is so worthy of a heritage tag.Sad to know that this too has seen the intolerance of Khilji but glad that it is seeing better days now.

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    1. Meenakshi - Modhera and Patan both are totally worth visiting when in Amdavad! I used to stay near Ahmadabad and never visited them back then. So don't worry - you will visit the temple when it calls! :D

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  15. The ceiling of the Sabha Mandap is mind boggling. How did they create such a marvel? Did the artisans carve the ceiling while it was already in place? Or work on it at ground level and lift it up later?

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    1. I am not sure, but given how the entire Sabha Mandap stands on pillars and from outside you can see that different pieces of the place have been put together to form the structure, I would guess they carved the ceiling separately and then put it at the top while assembling the structure :)

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  16. Wow! Those pillars are so ornate, super impressive and hard to believe the place has been forgotten. Wouldn’t want to be around in the evening when the bats take flight

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    1. Luckily they close down the area in the evening. Hope this place gains some of its old glory back soon because ASI is actually taking a lot of effort in maintaining the place now. :)

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  17. We visited Modhera in last January and although I had seen pictures of it before, the first sight blew me away. The temple architecture stuns with its intricate details. And the view from the steptank is magical.

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    1. I know right!!! No matter how amazing the pics look, literally no picture can actually match the brilliance of that place :D

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  18. I had no idea that India had seven sun temples.

    Gudha manado is stunning. How intricate the carvings. Your photos are totally stunning.

    You suggestions and tips are great. Noted to take lots of water.

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    1. Thank you so much. Glad you liked the pics and found the tips helpful!! :D BTW, Sara the seven sun temples I talked about are really old important ones built around the same time. Apparently there are a lot more newer ones in the country! Even I didn't know that before.

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  19. Such a shame that I am from India but really don;t know much about the Sun Temple in Modhera. You're right that when you say sun temple, Konark is the first one that comes to anyone's mind. But this one in Modhera looks pretty cool too! The ruins seem to have been well preserved, considering its been centuries since it was built. I need to start exploring the UNESCO world Heritage sites in my own country soon!

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    1. That is the saddest part of places in India. Tourism boards, education system and media didn't really take an effort in introducing us to places in our very own country and such beautiful places were being forgotten. But this seems to be changing now! Better late than never right :D

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  20. India is so freaking fascinating. I haven't been, but I'm so intrigued by your gorgeous photos. The Poetry of Pillars is my fave. These sun temples are so intricate! Wow!

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    1. Thank you so much! The temples are indeed amazing!

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  21. nice information and nice post. keep up the good work.

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  22. I have the best memories of visiting this place. Thanks for the lovely photos to remind me of my journey! The architecture is incredible, and the whole place is so peaceful and tranquil .

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